Big project, say a prayer for me will ya . I don’t know actually – never used the stuff. But it does need to be reasonably sharp. This worked fairly well, but dried very fast, and sometimes was a bit more difficult to clean up. before (top) and after (bottom) applying the wash. Pastels are a very fine ground chalk. After all the detail is washed, let dry for some time, then remove Washes are made by thinning the acrylic paint to a watery consistency. fold that in half. Login with your Facebook, Twitter, Google or The beauty of this technique is that it can be made with any color – even white! Doesn’t have to be glass smooth, but I generally lightly sand down the paint with a paper coffee filter prior to the pre-decal coat of Future. Just get some turpenoid from tray B, and using that, slide the excess oil around to fill in adjacent panel lines. Your straight forward tech advice is pleasing. I have applied this over several types of clear coats and have never found it to react adversely. I use many techniques and media when I weather: paint-shading, pastels, oil washes, dry- brushing, air-brushing and scrubbing. Washing hands with soap and water is the best way to get rid of germs in most situations. E.g. It's not very scientific, but it works for me. Acrylic paints + acrylic clear coat: chalk Layering washes to create colors adds more depth and richer colors to your palette than using some premixed pigments. The technique does not require waxing since this is no longer needed on cars that have been treated with an Opti-Coat sealant. DIRT AND GRIME WASH There is nothing like giving a model a good wash. By the way, your Mustang is in the showman class. Experiment….. You don’t want the towel moist… just the slightest hint of turpenoid. This creates a third color. Beyond the KAP study If programmes have often been top-down, it is at least in part because we have not had good techniques for finding out what people know, do Grab a cotton swab. Dry brushing: This is where you put paint on your brush then wipe it off. just pull some over from tray B as needed. You’ll quickly see how effects such as oil stains, etc., can be applied using minor adjustments to the panel wash technique. (And yes, there is a method to my madness.). Hey Landon, thanks for your kind words! The idea is to make a very thin mix of dark Two Techniques for getting professional looking painting 1. use a technique called washing. So I’m learning it all on my own. Thanks for reading my blog and commenting – I am grateful! For at least half an hour. Start by giving your model a smooth coat of primer, I would recommend Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, or Touch 'n Tone automotive primer, and inspect the surfaces for flaws. Do you keep the traditional colour scheme, or go for something more artistic and original? coat (e.g. wax (clear acrylic). Iknow this thread is nearly a decade old, but thanks so much for posting. Repeat until a small section is done, as  shown in the picture. I have seen some folks do it directly on the flat paint, to achieve a particular look. It should take up the oil in the problem area. Oh yeah! IMPORTANT NOTE: Alert reader Erik Brandlen sent me this note: “Jon, one important note. Almost every part of a ship model can benefit from a wash and dry-brush. Add about twice as much in volume of water. I don’t mix them- I just let it sit in with the oil paint It will  draw some color into it- this is what we’ll be working from, tray A for demonstration purposes. doesn’t have to be brand new, like is recommended for masking canopies. They will work on models in any scale and made of different materials. You will also get a better feel for developing your technique. Great NMF, too!! Jon, one important note. I mix up several weathering solutions of various strengths. will remove all of the wash (which is fine if you want to start over on a given LG’s line of washing machines offer innovative features including: Varied capacities: Whatever size you are looking for, LG has the washing machine to fit your lifestyle and laundry loads. Copyright © 2005-2012 modelairplanebuilding.com. What you end up with is a blob of oil paint with some terpenoid in it, and some turpenoid with a little oil in it. However, regardless of the amount of weathering, the processes remain … Thanks Jon, helped me a lot as did the air brush vid. To correct these, just go back through the wash procedure in these areas. The subject - this is the obvious. The oil will wait. But my experience with oils has been that in almost every respect, they work better. Trouble areas just require a little turpenoid. In this world you will have trouble. Never fear…. Cars and motorbikes can rust right through, while more robust, armoured vehicles tend to only show surface rust. Thanks for the heads up, Erik! An example of this is a pale yellow wash over a pale blue wash to create an area of green tint. This one is a discussion of the general usage and application of Future – https://youtu.be/AbHGhHooVRI, This one is a discussion about adding clear coats to Gundam, but the general principles apply to any model – https://youtu.be/dz3GX2QQQdg. the excess. Cheers Pal Austy, Hey there Jon, I stumbled upon your website due to a serious questioning of how to perform a wash correctly; as I had a similar case to Erik’s in that my turpentine ate through my several layers of lacquer varnish. One of the techniques many modelers use to enhance the look of their models, especially aircraft, is a “wash” to enhance panel lines and other detail. Tips & Techniques; Working With Color; Design Trends; FAQs; Crafters. I will assume that it is the liquid stuff, when do you apply it and how. Give the oils at least 24 hours to dry before applying any dull coat. While panicing is certainly an option, it’s not really necassary. If in doubt, test the wash and paint compatibility on a piece of Then, I put turpenoid in three other trays. What follows is the process of washing the panel lines, accompanied by several photos of the results of each step: Step 1: Paint the model as normal. After that- you’re done with the wash. As you can see with the P-51C I have been working on, the oil wash really makes the panel lines stand out. it. It’s very useful for quite a few applications in modeling. And do you use the provided decals, paint your own designs, or keep it clean? Please, answer my comment. with a brush to the panel lines and other detail as shown below right. I’m about to wash a 40″ RC PT-Boat. Or 36. I have 3 of them ,one is a very early one, not much detail on that one and all 3 are 1:48 scale. Now some people will point out that at 1/48 scale, the panel lines on the typical model airplane would not be very visible. Let it dry for an hour or so, then start to remove the excess wash.  Use the folded up corner of a paper towel, or Some of the finer So using the brush, load it up with some wash from tray B, and touch it to your panel line- I tend to start on the outer left wing. clear). Dry-brushing a model became a standard technique used by almost every modeller on almost every model. wash gets absorbed by the surface and becomes very difficult to remove later. And you can experiment with expanding this technique. rub on the flat areas of the surface, and remove the excess chalk mixture, God Bless you. You’ll need to switch the swab out fairly often, so you’re not just smearing oil everywhere. Let the capillary action draw the turpenoid into the panel line. ... For this technique to work, the model must be ready painted and varnished to a completely flat finish. Cross-hatching--which refers to the practice of drawing small straight lines--can be used for shading or to add dimension to a painting. I said in Part 4 that we would make each wheel look like it was all in the same place at the same time. Thanks Jon for the “How To” article on panel line wash. … Your email address will not be published. I finished up the wing. When you are happy with the wash on your model, it Matt surface is necessary for the pastel pigment to adhere. Certainly anything with separate compartments will work, from a piece of foil shaped appropriately, to several drink bottle lids. Model Master; Recreate History; Do-it-together; Search Site: Part # Search: Menu; Search; Testors / model-master / Acrylic Paints / Acrylic Washes. Nothing, but nothing makes more realistic rust stains than chalk pastels. Here are a few of my videos you may find useful. What truly makes a model look real is when it looks used. The process itself is straightforward. Do this for all the decals. Why? But you failed to mention ‘how to’ make such a great model like this one!! You’ll likely have a little excess still left, it may just look like a slight brown tint. You can get a tube at Hobby Lobby or Michaels with a coupon for just a few dollars, and a larger tube should last quite a long time. I like to use the small mixing palette shown in the picture… you’ll see why in a few more paragraphs. And if it’s 45 minutes, no problem. Make Wash Flow Evenly to Avoid Rings. If you get a little too much oil on the brush, use on of the other pools of turpenoid to wash it off. To start with, let’s look at the “tools” I use in doing an oil wash. First, you’ll need a model. Secondly, I must ask about the sealing of your model’s paint prior to the wash. Now, does the Future serve as a sealant to the paint much as a varnish would do? But take heart! It also helps not to scrub away at a given section for too long! coulda been 72 hours. I generally apply it via airbrush for general coverage, and it makes a nice glossy surface for decals, washes, etc. Here are some photos of our weathered Spitfire Mark Vb, followed by some notes about our weathering techniques: After the chalk wash, the Spitfire was airbrushed with Tamiya Flat Clear to seal the wash. Then: 1) Paint chipping was simulated on the wing walk areas with silver paint and a fine brush. I start by putting a glob of oil paint in one tray of the mixing dish- you can see it’s size next to the “0” brush. I use black or brown shoe leather dye, mixed with Isopropyl alcohol. Slop that wash on…. Well done Jon. As there are several brands of turpenoid on the market, it’s important to point out the brand you’re using. wash.  We like using water-based washes as they are easier to clean up. Once the brush is loaded, go back to your panel lines and apply that. As with any chemical used for modeling applications, always test it on a scrap piece if possible first! Load the brush with the color paint for your wash and then dip the brush in water to thin. Thanks for your patience. Load a brush with the wash and wet down the entire part of the aircraft model that you want to enhance. I’m always glad to help folks out! What I do is use some of the very thin turpenoid to get the panel lines “wet”, so when I use some of the thicker oil from the other tray, it will flow nicely. As there are several brands of turpenoid on the market it’s important point out the brand you’re using. Say you do get a huge blob of oil in one area…. The main thing is to have fun- enjoy oiling up those builds! You explain your technique in a very straight forward and easy to understand manner that even a slow dude like me can understand. using the back of a hobby knife blade. Lots of the techniques used to weather aircraft and armour models will work really well on your Sci-Fi, Fantasy, Steampunk and other similar models and you will find links to these below… Applying metal pigment with a Rubber Brush – with Mig Jimenez – HD Video DEMO Dirt, Grime and Streaking effects 3 HD Video Demos! The second weathering technique is the opposite of dry brushing and is the application of a wash. Soft bristle brushes of varying widths are used to apply a wash to the finish of the model kit. It’s been fully prepped with two coats of Future, and allowed to dry for 24 hours. Or 96. Trust me. Airbrush your model airplane! They are also great to use as visual sequence reminders for the steps or items needed in order to wash hands. pastels. See, with a wash being so thin and watery, when your brush goes over the model it will naturally pool up in edges, seems, textured areas, and deeper areas to create a natural looking shade. 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